CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- On a recent trip to Italy, those in my group who took their free day to see the ancient ruin of Herculaneum preferred that site over Pompeii. Others who spent their free day in Pompeii preferred it.

My guidebook said Pompeii was a must-see if traveling to the Bay of Naples, but noted that Herculaneum was better. "It's smaller, more intimate, and for the most part better preserved." Both were buried when Mount Vesuvius erupted in A.D. 79.

I vote for Pompeii, however, simply for its sheer size. It's like seeing the Grand Canyon or the terracotta soldiers in China. The vastness is jaw-dropping.

Pompeii was a city of 20,000 people. Its streets of roofless structures, laid out in grids, cover acres. If I were alone in Pompeii, I would be tempted to leave breadcrumbs to find my way back.

And I couldn't help think what a wonderful place for kids to explore and to play in. I was fascinated with Pompeii as a child, as I learned were others in my walking group. I think my imagination was captured by the photo of the cast of the boy holding up his arm as if to ward off a blow.

That original cast is in the National Museum in Naples, as are other body casts and most of the treasures unearthed at Pompeii.

The ash and volcanic cinders that covered Pompeii up to nearly 20 feet in some places is why the Roman city is so remarkably well preserved. The bodies of the victims eventually decomposed, but they left cavities in the ash. In excavating, archaeologists learned to pour liquid plaster into the cavities, which, when hard, took the shape of the individuals.

For instance, one cast on display is a pregnant woman lying on her stomach shielding her face with her arms. Historians can tell she was a slave because of the belt she wore. The way she and others were covering their faces is proof that the citizens of Pompeii died from inhaling the fiery, poisonous gases emitted by Mount Vesuvius.

Pompeii was a prosperous seaport city in the first century. It had courts, temples, public baths, a marketplace, theaters, bakeries, fast-food eateries and even a red-light district. Roofless ruins of all of those places can still be seen. The roofs were destroyed in fires sparked by the rain of hot ash and cinders.

Herculaneum, north of Pompeii near Naples, was a small seaside resort of about 4,000 residents. It was buried by hot mud and lava, so some of its buildings still have second stories and roofs.

From both Pompeii and Herculaneum, the lopsided Mount Vesuvius looms in the background. Once a typical-looking volcano with a cone peak, the top of the mountain collapsed inward when it blew in A.D. 79.

CHARLESTON, W.Va. -- On a recent trip to Italy, those in my group who took their free day to see the ancient ruin of Herculaneum preferred that site over Pompeii. Others who spent their free day in Pompeii preferred it.

My guidebook said Pompeii was a must-see if traveling to the Bay of Naples, but noted that Herculaneum was better. "It's smaller, more intimate, and for the most part better preserved." Both were buried when Mount Vesuvius erupted in A.D. 79.

I vote for Pompeii, however, simply for its sheer size. It's like seeing the Grand Canyon or the terracotta soldiers in China. The vastness is jaw-dropping.

Pompeii was a city of 20,000 people. Its streets of roofless structures, laid out in grids, cover acres. If I were alone in Pompeii, I would be tempted to leave breadcrumbs to find my way back.

And I couldn't help think what a wonderful place for kids to explore and to play in. I was fascinated with Pompeii as a child, as I learned were others in my walking group. I think my imagination was captured by the photo of the cast of the boy holding up his arm as if to ward off a blow.

That original cast is in the National Museum in Naples, as are other body casts and most of the treasures unearthed at Pompeii.

The ash and volcanic cinders that covered Pompeii up to nearly 20 feet in some places is why the Roman city is so remarkably well preserved. The bodies of the victims eventually decomposed, but they left cavities in the ash. In excavating, archaeologists learned to pour liquid plaster into the cavities, which, when hard, took the shape of the individuals.

For instance, one cast on display is a pregnant woman lying on her stomach shielding her face with her arms. Historians can tell she was a slave because of the belt she wore. The way she and others were covering their faces is proof that the citizens of Pompeii died from inhaling the fiery, poisonous gases emitted by Mount Vesuvius.

Pompeii was a prosperous seaport city in the first century. It had courts, temples, public baths, a marketplace, theaters, bakeries, fast-food eateries and even a red-light district. Roofless ruins of all of those places can still be seen. The roofs were destroyed in fires sparked by the rain of hot ash and cinders.

Herculaneum, north of Pompeii near Naples, was a small seaside resort of about 4,000 residents. It was buried by hot mud and lava, so some of its buildings still have second stories and roofs.

From both Pompeii and Herculaneum, the lopsided Mount Vesuvius looms in the background. Once a typical-looking volcano with a cone peak, the top of the mountain collapsed inward when it blew in A.D. 79.

There's a touch of suspense in visiting the volcano and the ruins knowing that Mount Vesuvius is the only active volcano on continental Europe. It erupted on average every 16 years until 1944, the date of its last major eruption. Slabs of lava and cavelike lava tunnels from that event can be seen on the drive up the mountain.

Tourists must hike the last 650 feet up to the crater of Mount Vesuvius, which I found to be a hard climb because of the loose volcanic ash on the path. Fortunately, for cash tips, an elderly couple handed out homemade walking sticks to be returned later.

Only wisps of steam, no bubbling lava, emerge from the crater. So much rock and debris has fallen into the crater, our guide said, there is no escape valve -- and pressure is building. Evacuation plans exist to move about a million people from the Naples area.

Looking down from Mount Vesuvius there's a ring of green lushness fertilized by lava in an otherwise arid landscape. The ruins of Pompeii and Herculaneum are visible 4,000 feet below.

A visit to Pompeii -- a World Heritage site -- often is offered on tour packages to Rome and southern Italy. It's easy to reach by train from Naples or Sorrento, having a stop of its own on the Circumvesuviana train.

There are knowledgeable certified guides who give two-hour tours. Employ one. You'll learn such information as why clay roof tiles are shaped like the letter U. (Slaves used their thighs to mold the clay.)

Wear comfortable shoes, sunglasses and a hat and carry water. There is no shade. A layer of dust covers everything, even the colorful and well-preserved frescos and mosaics.

I had been to Pompeii before, about a decade ago. I was impressed that the streets paved with large stones, uncovered in the 18th century, had ruts worn in the stone by cart and chariot wheels.

I was disappointed that one point of interest I visited the first time wasn't on my September tour. The House of Vetti should be seen, if you're not easily offended. The painting of the god of fertility that greets visitors on entrance is memorable. Elsewhere the rooms are painted in "Pompeii red" and mustard shades with beautiful paintings of war and scenes from mythology on the wall.

It was in 1748 under the enlightened King of Naples, Charles III of Bourbon, that exploration of Pompeii began, and was encouraged, and in Herculaneum 10 years earlier. After more than 200 years, 40 percent of the Pompeii site remains buried.

All work stopped about 1960. Archaeologists are waiting for better techniques to be developed before resuming excavation.

Reach Rosalie Earle at ea...@wvgazette.com or 304-348-5115.