July 20, 2008
The Romaine empire
Exploding popularity has bred some bad into this wonderful lettuce
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The good news: Americans are eating more romaine lettuce (full of vitamins) and less iceberg (full of not much).

The bad news: Romaine these days is kind of crummy.

We're not the only ones who've noticed. "Don't try to use the leathery part of the romaine leaves," cautions a Syrian cooking site trying to concoct a decent fattoush salad.

"Commercial romaines ... can often have tough, rather leathery huge leaves," says Renee's Garden, a seed company.

Tell us about it.

Government sites tell us that romaine consumption is up because we Americans love us some Caesar salad - the '80s kind, without coddled egg/anchovies and with skinlessbonelessbreast/ranchy dressing. And if demand is up, that means production has to go up ... hence the new monster, leathery, bred-to-ship romaines.

It's unfortunate, because romaine is so good in so many things. Tijuana restaurateur Caesar Cardini ripped up romaine for his famous first Caesar salad in 1924. Sturdy romaine can stand up to tomatoes, cukes and torn-up pitas in fattoush, or to bacon, egg and avocado in Cobb salad. Like iceberg, romaine will stay crisp even on top of a hot taco. Unlike iceberg, romaine actually counts as one of those leafy greens we're supposed to eat. One 8-calorie cup of romaine delivers about half of your daily vitamin K and vitamin A. (Good to keep in mind, for those of us whose kid virtuously counts the leaf of lettuce on her hamburger as one serving of vegetables.)

Get rid of the leather trim, coat the rest in a good Caesar dressing, and supermarket romaine's not half bad. We also like it grilled (see today's recipe) with homemade buttermilk dressing or a vinaigrette, like wilted lettuce salad. Romaine was the lettuce of choice for the ancient Romans, and they - like the medieval popes, the French gastronome Escoffier and the Chinese for centuries - usually ate it cooked.

If you find a farmer's market or anyone with locally grown romaine, go for it. Our weekly hook-up, the Monroe County Farm Market, recently had a glut of organic romaine for $1.50 a head - less leathery, tastes great.

Reach Robert J. Byers at robby...@wvgazette.com or 348-1236. Reach Tara Tuckwiller at t...@wvgazette.com or 348-5189.

The Main Tip

Lettuce is one of the top 10 produce items for pesticide residue, according to Environmental Working Group tests (www.foodnews.org). Look for organic varieties.

Grilled Romaine with Sweet Onion Vinaigrette (serves 2)

 1 head romaine lettuce

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